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Berlin, the resurrected capital of Germany, will lead EU in the 21st century

by Yoco Takada, Tokyo

From SIF SATELLITE issue 57, Spring 2000

Nikolai Kirche

 Nikolaikirche (Nikolai church)

Built in 1230 A.D., one of the oldest buildings in Berlin. This is where Berlin emerged.

Having anticipated that the coming new century is for Berlin, I stepped into the city for the first time. It has just resumed the status of the capital of Germany in 1999, ten years after the memorable reunion.

I had been interested in the city for 15 years, yet never really had a chance to visit. What interested me most was the decadent culture young West Berliners enjoyed in the late 80's. They found themselves in destructive noise music, art, and so on. The uncertainty of being in a hostage-like situation, left within the Eastern part, might have been the cause of the decadence. While the name Berlin is gaining recognition day by day, I finally made up my mind to see how things have changed since then.

To be honest, as I had expected more excitement, I found it rather quiet. But the more I looked at it carefully, the more I found it interesting.

During its separation period, Berlin was a showcase, as both West and East were competing by displaying their most advanced buildings to each other. In terms of height, the Western part won. It is true that, apart from the Mitte district in the Eastern part-where Sony, Daimler Benz, and others are proud of their modern buildings-other parts of the former East Berlin, particularly residential areas, do not seem to have changed since before the War. Many buildings are of similar height: mostly 5-storied buildings with no lifts. Also, if a condition of being a big city is to have an underground, only the Western part can qualify. In the Eastern part, the tram is still the most popular means of transportation for citizens, which gives the Eastern part a nostalgic relish.

Souvenir shop

 Souvenir shop in front of Nikolaikirche

The bear is the symbol of Berlin, and this lovely souvenir shop displays them. You can find remembrance replica goods such as toy-Trabant from the Eastern period at this shop.

It's often said that, even if it has been ten years since the reunion, the Eastern economy has not recovered, that the economical winners come from the Western side. This may be true; however, when it comes to the cultural side, the Eastern part takes the lead. The several abandoned buildings that are formerly factories or company buildings are suitable for artists who squat those places for their 'rent-free' atelier. Tacheles is one of those buildings which has now become a tourist's favorite. Tacheles and other similar places are forming artistic sites that attract galleries, and the galleries attract fashionable people. Then cafes follow and the whole area became prosperous. It is now the most exciting spot in Berlin, and the artistic spots in the Western part can hardly catch up as they are too established.

 

 

 

 inside Tacheles, walls covered with graffiti.

Inside of Tacheles

Tacheles, a ruin of an ex-East German building squatted in by artists. The walls of the interior are full of graffiti.

Hackescher Hof, an old housing complex which has the facade of a 19th-century look resembling Viennese Klimt-designed ones, with bars, cafes, cinema and so on, accentuates the area. On weekends, people hung around till late. Not only does the art scene flourish there, but theatre and dance performances as well. Each night, spectators queue up outside to get tickets for those performances. The most unmissable thing in Berlin, however, is the night clubbing, according to repeating foreign visitors to the city. They say that good events are likely to be taking place in the basements of the abandoned buildings, secretly. The guests are the chosen few who can get the information about the venue, date, time and so on by word of mouth or e-mail so that they can keep outsiders shut out. This is how the Berlin night club scene remains fresh.

 

 

 

 Palace ruin

Ruin of the Palace

The palace was demolished by World War II, apart from one remaining facade which was adopted to a governmental building of the DDR. Now the ruin is an open space.

The entertainment is just another face of Berlin; the casual Berlin is rather quiet. However, I am sure that it will turn out to be the busiest big city and become the centre of Europe in both culture and business in five years time, just like it was in the 19th century. In the meantime, we have to keep eye on it.

 

 

 

 

 

 Hackescher Hof

 Hackescher Hof at night on weekend

This Klimt-like old housing complex is an entertainment site and becomes busy on weekends.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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